Harvey Feinstein
Pruning is one of the most important activities we do to keep roses healthy and increase the size of the blooms. It is also the single activity that causes ‘fear and trembling’ even amongst experienced rose growers. What people don’t realize is that you can’t ruin your rose bush and you probably won’t kill it either. So then, why should we prune? First of all it enhances the size and shape of the bush. It also encourages new and healthy growth. And it’s upon this wood that your plant will send up new blossoms. By cutting away last year’s canes starting from the center of the bush, you allow air circulation which helps to discourage disease, mold, and fungus.
Different species of roses need different pruning. Most folks don’t remember the names of their roses. That’s a problem. Tea Roses have one rose per stem and should be cut down to almost one foot, and leave only four to six healthy canes at the most. It sounds radical, but by mid summer they will have reached four to six feet again. It’s important to cut away canes that are crossing or rubbing, as it can injure the entire bush. Make certain the center of the bush is open for air circulation. It should resemble an urn shape when you are finished.
Grandifloras, Floribundas, and Shrub Roses usually have five blooms per stem. They can be pruned down to knee height - always try to keep the center of the plant open. (see above). If you are a short or a tall person, use your discretion as to where your knees are. The cut should be on an angle ” above an outward facing bud.” That too will help to keep the center open. The reason we cut at an angle is to allow rain and water to roll off. Cut away anything smaller than pencil size. A skinny cane can’t support the weight of a rose. You can also ‘finger prune’. For any bud facing inward just rub it off with your thumb. If the bush has died over the winter, ‘shovel prune’ it. Remove the old bush, remove most of the old soil, add new fresh soil and compost and start again. One note: Many of you have KnockOut, or any of that series in your garden. The plant wants to be pruned so that its final shape will be rounded. If you don’t prune it, it will reach a height that even your knees won’t reach. The nice thing about this group is it self dead-heads.
Climbing roses should be cut AFTER the first bloom in spring, as they bloom on last year’s wood. Climbing roses need to have their canes turned horizontally and tied to a support, since they do not have suckers to hold them up. A chemical reaction then sends up a row of new buds along the horizontal canes, which after blooming can also be turned and tied horizontally. That’s how you cover your fence or wall with roses. In the spring you can do a little cosmetic clean up, but wait ‘till after the first bloom before you prune.
Lastly, when you cut a cane paint the exposed surface with a clear nail polish. That protects it from cane borers. Examine your handiwork. If there are brown canes that are brittle that cane is probably dead. If you cut away a cane and the inside (the pith) is dark brown or black, it is a dead cane. Cut it away down to the graft. Any giant canes that have outgrown any other canes are probably coming from the root stock that was used to make the graft. Cut that down to the graft or you will find the rose you had has been metamorphosed into Dr.Huey, a late nineteenth century rose used widely for root stock. If you have “own root“ roses, that won’t happen. I spray the bush and the soil after pruning with dormant oil that smothers any fungus or eggs that may have wintered over. I use Safer pre-emergent Horticultural Oil ©. One shot is all you need. Fertilize with 5 10 5, mulch, then sit back, wait for spring, and look out for the Forsythia.